Learning to Ride the Wave

 My wife and I have not had an easy decision. We asked ourselves: “Do we send our son to  in-person school or should he learn virtually?” The one thing that we are convinced of is the importance of learning; the importance of education. In the Presbyterian Church, we often call this “Stewardship of the Mind.” I’ve joked with friends that education and travel are two things that I’ve never regretted spending money on. That, and good bottle of rum.

Some of the most important lessons I’ve learned have not come from a classroom but from the ocean. From 35 years of surfing, I’ve gleaned a small education:

·         Slow down and enjoy the moment.

·         For the best ride, go with the wave.

·         Watch the horizon while also paying attention to the immediate surroundings.

·         Don’t give up when faced with a difficult paddle out.

·         Surrender when necessary.

·         Nature matters.

·         My body has limits.

·         Beauty gives hope

·         I am mortal and aging. And that’s OK.

In the last year or two, I have consciously tried to learn while in the water. I’ve asked myself, “What am I learning today?  What is surfing teaching me in this moment?”

Surfing has taught me:

·         The languages of God–silence, energy, beauty and love.

·         I have a small addiction to adrenaline.

·         The wonders of energy that make up waves.

·         I am but a small speck in a great big ocean—so don’t take everything so seriously.

·         The cares of the day pass away like the tides.

·         Walk through fear and believe in myself.

·         The blessedness of a fully expended body.

·         Not every wave you ride is going to work out.

·         Sometimes wipeouts are inevitable.

·         Risk should be calculated.

·         I am not the best or the worst.

·         Practice pays off.

·         Grace under pressure is crucial.

·         Listen to my breath and control my breathing.

·         Relax when being pummeled by a force too great to resist.

·         Know when to bail off.

·         Paddle like hell when my gut tells me to paddle like hell.

·         There are some waves that no one can surf.

·         Sometimes it’s important to sit on the beach and not paddle out.

·         Keep an eye on friends and family so I can help if the need arises.

·         Always listen to my intuition. Always.

·         Waves hogs are jerks.

·         Cheer for others.

·         Play like a little boy every chance I get—because life is not a dress rehearsal.